Dia de los Muertos, Olvera Street



With a name like Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), skulls and skeletons as its most recognized symbols and falling On November 1st and 2nd, this holiday appears to the uninitiated to be a Mexican version of Halloween; it is, however, a holy day, a day for remembering and revering the dead, a celebration of lives lived and memories made.

Dia de los Muertos celebrations mirror many Catholic rituals – such as the incense and smoke spiritual cleansing which often proceeds Day of the Dead processions – but their roots lie in the beliefs held for centuries by Mexican tribal peoples.  In the early 1900s, the skeleton art of Mexican lithographer José Guadalupe Posada meshed the image of the dancing calavera (skeleton) with Dia de los Muertos.  His skeletons – often pictured in the garb of life’s most important moments such as marriage – symbolized the easy interaction the Mexican people have with the hereafter.  Guadalupe Posada also used his calaveras to lampoon the Mexican upper class under the leadership of Porfirio Diaz.  La Catrina, the elegant society lady with a skeletal face, and El Catrin, her male counterpart have worked themselves into mainstream artwork.  Today, some Dia de los Muertos celebrations use the images in the same way to lament the suffering of indigenous peoples or to criticize injustice.

Ofrendas (altars) commemorate the lives of the departed and offer a place where friends, family and the spirits of those who have passed can feast and share memories.  They also serve as a way for younger family members and others to learn about the dead.  An ofrenda may have pictures and other articles that recall the dead person or persons and food to be eaten both by the spirits who visit during the season as well as their living relatives; in addition, religious icons intermixed with calaveras of all sorts and elaborate papel picado (paper cuts) often decorate the altars.

An ofrenda documenting the life of a loved in pictures and artifacts and inviting the spirit to come and enjoy a feast…

An ofrenda lamenting what its designers see as the failures of the government in its responsibilities and proposing a very direct and timely political solution.

Olvera Street, the Mexican market plaza in downtown Los Angeles across from Union Station, celebrates Dia de los Muertos annually with a week of nightly processions each evening through November 2nd.  The procession begins at 7 p.m. near the market’s  entrance at Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and travels the length of the market to the grand stand where families and organizations have built their ofrendas.

Olvera Street entrance off of Cesar Chavez Avenue…

welcoming skulls…

a friendly skeleton…

the procession begins…

much like a New Orleans funeral, a band leads the way…

reminiscent of a whirling dervish, a dancing skeleton twirls his robes and is followed by a skeletal acolyte…

a cavalera bride and

and her skeleton groom approach

followed by her ladies-in-waiting

and a retinue of children bring up the rear.

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Choose the right debit and/or credit cards for travel

After a harsh learning experience in a previous life, I no longer use credit cards; personally, unless you pay a card off every month, the downside to credit cards definitely outweighs the upside (admittedly, they do have their uses when making large purchases but that’s a different blog).

Still, no matter whether you choose a debit or credit card for your travels, choosing the right card can save you quite a bit of money.

When I first began to travel outside the United States, I was stunned by the fees charged on purchases beyond US borders.  These fees began even before I left the country – paying for a course or a B&B often triggered currency exchange rates and fees on those rates that ran to 3% and more of the cost of whatever good or service I was buying.  My bank also charged hefty fees if I bought foreign currency before I left the country.  Something as simple as getting cash from an ATM also gave me sticker shock – and I’m not just talking about the fee for using a machine outside of your bank’s network but the currency exchange fees that will be added on top of the out of network fees.

Double check current policies with your bank(s) before leaving the country.  Fees, exchange rates and service policies – particularly in the current economic climate – are always subject to change.  Make your decisions based upon your individual relationship with your bank, however, these are a few general tips I’ve picked up during my travels:

- Alert your bank that you will be travelling outside the country.  Tell the bank representative the dates of your travel and your destinations including airport stopovers.  My bank will generally let the first transaction outside of the country slide by but the second transaction sets off a security alert which can be embarrassing.  Imagine having your debit or charge refused at a restaurant or when you check out of your hotel.  In addition, be sure you know the “outside of the United States” contact number for your bank, it is usually on the back of your card.  All of the foreign contact information for my cards has been entered into my BlackBerry (or as it is known in my house, my Annoying Berry).

- Find out if your bank has partner banks in other countries; for instance, Bank of America has partnerships with Barclays in England and China Construction Bank in Hong Kong.  There are no currency exchange fees or out of network fees for using Barclays and China Construction Bank ATMs when you use a B of  A debit or credit card to get money out of your account.  HSBC is also a good card to carry when travelling.

- Wait until you get to your destination to buy that country’s currency; this means if you visit a country frequently you should save a little money for your next trip back.  I visit England several times a year and always save a ten pound note for the return trip, that way when I land at a British airport, I have enough money to take a train or the Underground to a stop near a Barclays Bank; the same is true when I visit Hong Kong, I always keep 100 HK dollars in reserve for a return visit.  If you buy an Oyster card for travel in England or an Octopus card for travel in Hong Kong, you can also leave enough credit on it for a trip to a friendly ATM location.

- Carry cash and pay cash.  Many bed & breakfasts in England prefer cash and some refuse cards altogether; those that do accept cards may charge fees regardless of the type or brand of card you use.  In addition, smaller towns may not have ATMs that are convenient, safe or globally branded.   Yes, I know carrying cash is a security risk but approached sensibly this risk can be greatly lessened.  The same rules apply for carrying cash in foreign countries as apply for carrying cash in the United States.  Don’t flaunt a big bank roll.  Carry small denominations and don’t put all your cash in your purse or wallet.  Take care when using ATMs, avoid taking out cash at night, try to use one on a busy, well lit street.

- Be particularly wary of using stand alone ATMs (these are often found in rural areas and/or in businesses that don’t accept debit/credit cards).  The fees and currency exchange rates charged by these ATMs can be exorbitant and will be on top of any fees charged by your home bank for using an out of network machine.

- Use different cards for different services.  I carry a PayPal debit card for business use; if I buy goods or services online, there is rarely a transaction fee and when there is one, it is minuscule; however, the vast majority of ATMs charge a minimum of $3.00 for a withdrawal made with a PayPal debit card so I never use it for withdrawing cash.

- Just as you would at home, protect your cards.  Be wary of using them online in public places and even when in your hotel room.  Ask for receipts for all purchases and keep them until you have settled accounts upon your return.

Debit and credit card fees and currency exchange rates can add tens, even hundreds, of dollars to your travel expenses.  A little bit of knowledge and thought before you leave the country can help stretch your travel dollars to the max.

And, oh yes, that’s just a random chicken…

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